Saturday, January 2, 2010

Rodzina znachora. Wyspa Sumba.

Ofiarna kura najbardziej smakowała dzieciom. Dorośli żuli mój betel lub palili papierosy, które przywiozlem z Waikabubak. Mój przewodnik miał opory w jedzeniu kurczaka. Jako chrześcijanin pamietał przestrogę swojego ojca, aby nie brać udziału w obrzędach Marapu i nie uznawać innych bogów.

Wnuczka znachora.

Moja obecność w wiosce została zaakceptowana. Znachor Memebili zaprosił mnie na najważniejszy festiwal Pasola.

Rozejrzałem się po okolicy i poznałem kolejnych mieszkańców wioski.


Żona znachora...


...siedziała na werandzie sąsiedniego domu.


Syn znachora, który miał kiedyś stać się głównym kapłanem Marapu był najweselszym Sumbańczykiem jakiego spotkałem.


W dalszej kolejności kuzyni, bratankowie i wnuki.


Zresztą trudno było dociec, kto jest wnukiem Znachora, a kto nie ;-) Gromadka dzieci bawiła się z prosiakami pod chatami.

Młodzi mezczyzni pracowali przy budowie nowego domu.

Przesympatyczni ludzie i ciekawa okolica.
Po spacerze po wiosce pojechałem zobaczyć pobliską plaze nad Oceanem Indyjskim.

Indonesian officials like Mataram in Lombok. Indonesia

Ferries in Indonesia are extremely slow. Mussels and crayfish swim faster.
The ferry from Bali to Lombok takes half-day trip.
I came to the port of Lembar already at dusk.


I got a lift with another 4 backpackers after long negotiations with local touts. The travel mates were heading to Senggigi and I got off in Mataram. I knocked to 9 different hotels in the town before I got a room.

It seemed that Indonesian officials travelled and occupied all available accommodation in all Nusa Tenggara.


During my travel throughout the islands the biggest problem was related to finding a hotel room. This was a difficult mission despite the influx of a few tourists in Nusa Tenggara. The backpackers here were in danger of extinction like the dinosaurs in the past. The few hotels were always occupied by the officials, who sat all days at local restaurants.

Ninth hotel. Here I got a room for $ 6. The place was clean, but the mosquitoes didn’t let me sleep.

This hotel was populated with a horde of tourists from Java. Do Indonesians have some holidays in November?


The only one mall in the town is called “Mataram Mall”. There are two internet cafes with old computers and slow connection.


Mataram has over 300 thousand inhabitants. The town looks as deserted.
Maybe it is too much spread out ? It is the capital and largest city of West Nusa Tenggara province.


Cheap, yellow bemos shuttle along main streets.



People in Mataram are friendly and willing to give you an answer and an information.


Mataram is only a stop on the way to Gili Islands. If you need to sleep here, look for a hotel as soon as possible after you arrive.

Friday, January 1, 2010

Temple Luhur Luwatu. Bali

Pura Luhur Uluwatu has the most spectacular location in Bali.


The temple is built on a high cliff.
The place is famous for its beautiful sunsets.
Pura Luhur is an hour drive south of Kuta
Mountainous asphalt road passes Pecatu village, whence it is a pleasant downhill (if you're going on a motorcycle) in an easterly direction.

This place is well known for water sports activities. It's only one mile away to Mebulu Point with fantastic surfing waves.


The cliff path is occupied by a horde of some aggressive monkeys.
Watch out for your sunglasses, and even hair clips or earrings. The local monkeys are incredibly fast.




All visitors must wear a sarong in the temple area.


The temple buildings themselves are very modest.


Tourists have no right to admission to the Pura.

The temples in Bali are open only to the followers of Hindu religion.


I met stubborn Japanese, who tried to enter the temple through all subsequent gates.
I paid for the ticket – he spoke this phrase like a mantra.
Nobody couldn't explain him this rule.
Yes, I met there some nervous tourists and laid back Balinese people.

Stone Ganesha was also cool ;-)